Sublime Spring weather makes a trip to a mystical desert oasis in West Texas a splendid idea. Here, I’m sharing my guide on how to spend 4 days in Marfa, Texas.
Bring a companion, leave your expectations and head to the desert.
My then fiance and I left Austin on a Thursday morning and stopped for a scenic hike in South Llano State Park in Junction, Texas. The city of Junction sits approximately 2 hours and 40 minutes away from Austin making it a great midway point to Marfa. We refueled with sandwiches, salads and sweet tea at the laid back Junction Burger Co. before starting the 4 hour leg to Marfa.
On the 6 hour & 45 minute drive to Marfa, I took in the slow, serene transition from the lush Hill Country to the West Texas desert.
When selecting accommodations in Marfa, we were torn between the chic Hotel Saint George and boho classic El Cosmico. We ultimately decided to lean into the laissez faire lifestyle and booked a tepee at El Cosmico.
The total price w/ tax for 3 nights was $495 – I booked about 2 months in advance on the El Cosmico website taking advantage of their stay a while offer (20% off when booking 3+ nights). El Cosmico offers an array of unique shelter from trailers and casitas to yurts and a self camping area.
Josh and I enjoyed our tepee tremendously despite him announcing that he saw a big spider inside.
It’s worth knowing that tepee living may come with an unwanted roommate and relaxed security – you can’t lock a tepee door flap.
For peace of mind, either take all your valuables with you whenever you leave or don’t bring them at all. I did the latter. I would stay at El Cosmico again and opt for a trailer or their new Bushtec tent.
Day 1 / Thursday
- 8AM: Depart from Austin and drive to Junction, Texas (2 hours, 45 minutes)
- 10:45 – 1PM: Hike South Llano State Park followed by lunch at Junction Burger Co and a gas top off
- 1- 5PM: Drive to Marfa (4 hours)
- 5PM: Check into our tepee at El Cosmico
- 7PM: Dinner at Cochineal
We had an extraordinary dining experience at Cochineal – pre-fixe menu, sensational wine pairings and a special celebration (Josh’s birthday).
Reservations and prepayment are required well in advance but it is worth it to have the best food in all of West Texas.
Our first full day in Marfa was dedicated to exploring the 1-stoplight town, enjoying a dose of art and a dash of mystery.
Day 2 / Friday
- 9-10AM: Relax with breakfast in the garden at Aster
- 10-12PM: Shop Highland Avenue – my favorites were Garza Marfa, Wrong, Communitie and Pronghorn
- 12-1PM: Pizza lunch in the garden at Para Llevar
- 1-2:30PM: Museum tour at the Chinati Foundation
- 2:30-3PM: Afternoon coffee and ice cream at Frama
- 3-4PM: Browse galleries, bookstore and shops
- 4-6PM: Afternoon drinks and a dip at the Hotel Saint George pool
- 7-8PM: Live music at El Cosmico
- 8-9:30PM Dinner at Jett’s Grill inside the historic Paisano Hotel
- 10PM: Marfa Lights viewing spot (located 9 miles east of Marfa on U.S. 90, towards Alpine)
While we were staying at El Cosmico we still wanted to cool down at the Hotel Saint George pool. I heard a rumor that if you go later in the day and slip the entryway attendant a $20, you’re welcome in. We did just that and had a lovely time lounging poolside with a spicy margarita in hand.
Seeing the Marfa Lights, a mysterious and one-of-a-kind sighting, is not guaranteed.
We dedicated our last full day to driving to experience a handful of nearby nature destinations.
Day 3 / Saturday
- 8-9AM: Fresh brew and breakfast bites at Do Your Thing
- 9AM: Drive to Fort Davis / Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center (25 minutes)
- 9:30-12PM: Hike trails and visit the botanical garden at the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center
- 12-1PM: Lunch at the historic Americana Fort Davis Drug Store
- 1PM: Drive to Balmoreah (45 minutes)
- 2-4PM: Swimming, snorkeling and sunning at the Balmorhea spring-fed pool
- 4PM: Drive to Fort Davis State Park (45 minutes)
- 5-6PM: Took in views at the scenic overlook at Davis Mountains State Park
- 6-7:30PM: Dinner at Harvard Bar and Grill
- 8PM: Star party at McDonald Observatory
Beware of the occasional minnow nibbling on your toes as the Balmorhea Pool is home to several species of fish.
The Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center had moderate-level trails that boasted fantastic views and a blooming botanical garden filled with countless desert flora and fauna.
After spending a morning on a desert hike, one deserves to take a dip in the natural spring-fed Balmorhea pool.
Marfa Lights one night and a Star Party at the McDonald Observatory the next?
Oh, yes. If you too enjoy astronomy or a bit of intrigue, I recommend taking advantage of experiences only available where there is limited bright city light. Use caution when driving back to Marfa at night, we saw dozens of Javelinas on the side of the road.
Day 4 / Sunday
- 9AM: Breakfast at The Sentinel
- 9:30AM: Drive to Junction (4 hours)
- 12:30-1PM: Lunch in Junction — Junction Burger Co. is closed on Sunday so we grabbed a lackluster sandwich at Subway
- 1-4PM: Drive to Austin (2 hours, 45 minutes)
During our next trip to West Texas, we hope to experience Convenience West BBQ, Marfa Spirit Co. and Marfa Burrito in Marfa and explore Alpine and Big Bend.
We drove back to Austin feeling enchanted and inspired by the art, desert nature and the celestial sights seen in West Texas.